Serving the Wasatch Front, Utah · Davis & Salt Lake County
AC Repair
Warm air, weak airflow, short cycling, ice, water, or a system that will not start can have several causes. CMB HVAC diagnoses the system, explains what failed, and gives written repair options before work begins.
An air conditioner that isn't cooling is a symptom, not a diagnosis. The same no-cool call can end at a weak capacitor, a failed fan motor, a low refrigerant circuit with a leak, or a drain switch that shut the system down to protect your ceiling — so we test the thermostat and controls, electrical components, motors, airflow, coils, condensate, and refrigerant circuit until we know which one it is.
Then you get the finding in plain English with flat-rate options in writing before any work starts. After the repair we re-test temperatures, amps, and pressures so you know the fix held, and the service call is free when we do the work.
No per-hour guessing on your dime. The diagnosis tells us the part; the flat rate is the price whether the repair takes forty minutes or two hours.
The diagnostic visit costs nothing when we perform the repair — and it's free even if the answer is replacement.
Pricing is quoted per job, in writing, before tools come out — not per hour with an open ending.
Our technicians hold EPA Section 608 certification for legal refrigerant work on every sealed-system repair.
Every repair ends with re-tested temperatures and amp draws — verified on the meter, not assumed at the door.
Tap a symptom to jump to the component most often behind it — then let the diagnosis confirm it.
The fan spins, the unit hums, but the air from the registers never gets cold. Often a refrigerant or coil problem.
Electrical symptoms usually point at the starting components — and they're affordable to fix early.
A system that starts and stops every few minutes is fighting something — electrical, airflow, or charge.
Ice on the refrigerant line or water around the furnace means the system is protecting itself from worse damage.
Symptoms overlap, so the meter decides. This is the sequence we work through on every repair call.
We confirm the call for cooling actually arrives — wiring, settings, and control board — before blaming the big parts.
Capacitors and contactors are tested under load. Weak starting components cause most of the clicking-and-nothing calls.
A clogged filter or blocked return starves the system and mimics expensive failures. Cheap things get checked first.
Dirty coils strangle heat transfer, and a tripped float switch shuts cooling off to protect your home. Both are common.
Pressures and temperature split tell us if the sealed system is doing its job — and whether a leak search is warranted.
Hearing or seeing something that doesn't match this list? Call (385) 865-6749 — describe it and we'll tell you what it usually means.
When a repair estimate is significant, you deserve the comparison side by side — both figures in writing on the same visit.
The right call when the system is otherwise healthy: strong airflow, clean coils, sound refrigerant circuit, and a part that failed on its own schedule.
Best for: systems under ~10 years with a single failed component
Sometimes the honest answer is both — fix what gets you through the season, and get a replacement quote you can schedule on your terms instead of during the next heat wave.
Best for: older systems with repairable faults and rising repair frequency
When the failed part is a compressor or a leaking coil, the repair can approach a meaningful share of a new system. We'll show you both numbers and what each includes.
Best for: compressor, coil, or multi-failure situations on older equipment
Two identical-looking no-cool calls can land at very different prices because the failed parts differ. Here's what actually moves the number.
Your flat-rate quote already accounts for all of this — the list is here so the quote makes sense, not so you can predict it yourself.
A capacitor and a compressor are both electrical failures; their part costs are not in the same universe. The diagnosis determines the tier.
Older systems running phased-out refrigerant cost more to recharge — one more factor in the repair-versus-replace math.
A part on an open condenser is a ten-minute swap; the same part behind a coil plenum or on a rooftop unit is a bigger job.
We hold our pricing flat year-round — but scheduling in May beats scheduling during the first 100° week for appointment choice.
We quote every repair as a flat rate before work starts, and we don't publish price lists because two systems rarely fail the same way. Your written options are itemized — parts, labor, and any alternatives — so you can compare them line by line before deciding.
Free service call. We test the full sequence — controls, electrical, airflow, coils, drain, refrigerant — and find the actual fault.
Flat-rate options, including the repair-versus-replace comparison when it's relevant. Work starts only when you say so.
The failed component is replaced or repaired with the system protected — drop cloths down, old parts hauled off unless you want to see them.
Temperatures, amperage, and pressures are re-measured and recorded. You get the numbers with the invoice, not a handshake.
Utah's heat is dry, which is easier on people and harder on equipment in one specific way: long, high-load afternoons with big temperature swings overnight. Condensers run hard from early afternoon through evening for weeks at a time in July and August, and anything marginal — a weak capacitor, a dirty coil, a low charge — tends to fail during the first real heat, not during a mild spring test.
Component-level answers for the terms you'll see on your invoice — and the anchor points for the symptoms above.
The kick-start battery for the compressor and fan motors. When it weakens, you hear humming or clicking with no startup, or the fan spins only after a push-start. It's the most common no-cool part we replace, it fails faster in sustained heat, and replacing it early protects the far more expensive motors it starts.
The relay that actually sends power to the condenser when the thermostat calls for cooling. Pitted contacts cause short cycling, chattering, or a system that ignores the thermostat entirely. Contactor wear is normal over years of use and is a straightforward flat-rate replacement.
Moves air through the coil and into your ducts. A failing blower shows up as weak airflow from registers, a furnace fan that runs constantly, or overheating that trips limits. We test the motor and its control module separately — modern variable motors fail in their modules as often as in the windings.
The fan in the outdoor unit that dumps indoor heat into the air. When it stops, the compressor runs hot and the system trips on high pressure — you'll hear the unit running with no fan turning. Shut the system off and call; running it in this state is how fan-motor failures turn into compressor failures.
The heart of the refrigerant circuit and the most expensive single component in the system. Hard starting, tripping breakers, or cooling that fades as the afternoon heats up all point at it — but so can the cheaper parts above, which is exactly why a meter diagnosis matters before assuming the worst.
The indoor coil that pulls heat and moisture from your air. Restricted airflow or low charge freezes it into a block of ice, and ice today is water damage tomorrow when it melts. Ice on the coil or the refrigerant line at the furnace means: turn the system off, let it thaw, and call us — don't run it frozen.
The whole outdoor cabinet — coil, fan, compressor. It needs airflow on all sides, so landscaping rock, fences, and cottonwood fuzz are its natural enemies. Gentle hose-rinsing of the coil each season helps; pressure washers and chemical coil cleaners generally don't, and bent fins restrict the airflow the system lives on.
The only part of the system you actually touch. Dead batteries, a schedule nobody remembers setting, or a wiring fault can masquerade as a broken air conditioner. We verify the call for cooling at the thermostat before anything else — a surprising share of repair calls end at this step.
The coil wrings water out of your air even in a dry climate, and that water exits through a drain line that can clog with sludge and scale. When it does, a float switch shuts cooling off to protect the furnace and floor — so a no-cool call in August is sometimes a drain call. Flushing the line and treating it is routine maintenance.
Low refrigerant almost always means a leak, not a leak-free system that 'used up' its charge — refrigerant isn't a consumable. We find leaks with pressure testing and electronic detection, then quote the repair honestly: some leaks are at accessible braze joints, and some are inside a coil, where replacement is the sensible fix. Topping off without repairing the leak is money spent twice.
Book online or call. We'll find the actual fault, put flat-rate options in writing, and verify the fix on the meter before we leave.
